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02/22/2023
2:22PM

Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2025: A Show of Inspired Elegance

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The Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2025 show was a captivating blend of delicacy and intensity, embodying a poetic duality that felt both familiar and refreshingly daring. Held in a dark granite venue lined with flowers, the show had an evocative atmosphere from the start. Creative director Stefano Gallici set the tone with a “Wall of References” booklet at each guest’s seat, filled with photographs and inspirations that offered a glimpse into the collection’s thesis. This collection seamlessly fused ethereal beauty with a rebellious spirit, breathing new life into the brand's iconic identity while venturing into new creative territory. Each look told its own story—a narrative of romance, strength, and the striking beauty found in contrasts.

The interplay of soft, flowing fabrics with sharply defined silhouettes was enchanting. Sheer lace blouses, fluid skirts, and perfectly tailored blazers gave the collection a sense of movement and elegance, while asymmetric cuts and harness-like details added an element of raw, untamed power. The contrast between structured pieces and light, billowy elements evoked a sense of defiance, staying true to Ann Demeulemeester's legacy of rebellion and grace. The color palette remained classic, with soft whites, deep blacks, and delicate pastels that created a moody, dreamlike atmosphere.

Standout pieces included long, flowing coats that seemed to billow with every step, layered over breezy trousers or sheer skirts, creating an ethereal yet grounded look. Leather vests were draped over tops with delicate capes, while hole-punched T-shirts paired with silky trousers, adding a punk-infused twist that echoed the spirit of rock. The use of leather harnesses over airy gowns added a striking juxtaposition that conveyed both strength and vulnerability, while oversized blazers with relaxed yet precise cuts exuded effortless cool. The minimal use of accessories kept the focus on the silhouettes and textures, highlighting the craftsmanship and attention to detail that made each piece so impactful.

Gallici’s approach was inspired by a mix of seemingly scattered influences—summer’s sun-faded clothing, bare chests and denim, Crystal Castles, and Fleetwood Mac’s “Rumors”—which melded seamlessly on the runway. This eclectic mix brought out an understated regency in the collection, with gentlemanly suiting, frilly shirting, and ethereal dresses balanced by a distinct punk edge. There was lace, denim, and knit that moved like feathers. The collection played with elongation and slouchiness, as well as the suppleness of tailoring, resulting in a look that was both regal and rebellious.

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